Acura Rsx Type S Timing Chain Kit

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Hey guys, my wife's 02 Type S needs to have the timing chain replaced, or adjusted, and I was wondering whats the expected cost of this before we start looking for either a dealer or mechanic to do the work? I'm 100% sure it's the chain and not something else, but the local mechanic who's been helping us troubleshoot the issue doesn't want to repair it himself. Just want to make sure I'm paying a fair price ( or even what price to expect) as we start shopping around for someone who can fix this for us. Thanks!Read more...
Hey guys just so you all know when a manufacture states something like "lifetime of engine" "no service interval" or anything else like that, what they mean is that it will last past the warranty, and most manufactures want you to buy a new car at that point. If it breaks after warranty yes you are screwed because then its on you not them. Also if you are hard on your engine you want to be aware that even-thou its a chain, it can still break, and does break. Down shifting "slamming it into a lower gear" puts A LOT of abuse onto that chain. I always recommend changing the Timing belts at 60-90k miles and Timing chains at 150k to 200k miles. On a Kia I wouldn't recommend waiting past 150k for a chain cause its made cheap for a reason! On a Honda I would see it as a wise investment at 200k but not before then, unless the car has been run low on oil multiple times, in which case it could break by 200k. In the end Honda Engines DON'T Die, they get KILLED by stupid people that don't maintenance them.Read more...
, it's painfully obvious when you have a complete timing chain failure. You won't be able to start or run your vehicle and can face very costly repairs like valve jobs or other expensive engine repair work. That's why it's so important to service the chain as recommended and act immediately at the first sign of problems. Signs to look out for include hesitation while starting the car, a rough idle, misfiring of your valves or pistons, and occasional backfire due to carbon build up from misfiring of the pistons. How do I replace a timing chain? Replacement of a timing chain is not an easy task. It was somewhat easier with older cars as it only required removal of theRead more...
This is basically a copy/paste from my post on clubrsx, but I want as many opinions and as much information as possible. Bone stock rsx type s motor. I'm reinstalling the timing chain and everything looks good. I used the colored links on the chain and matched them up to the corresponding punch marks on the crank/oil pump sprocket and on the camshaft sprockets/vtc actuator per the service manual. Now that everything is in place, it looks like the timing is off the mark by about half a tooth at the crank whenever the marks on the camshaft sprockets are lined up. Normal? Also, I had a hell of a time with the cam chain tensioner. When I took it out, I inserted a paperclip as directed after compressing it to keep the piston from popping out. It popped out anyway. Try as I might, I can't get it to stay compressed whenever I insert the paperclip. This is what I'm talking about :Read more...
Hey All! I was reading earlier about people opinions on the quality of Acura/Honda and read a little about timing chains instead of timing belts. I was at an Nissan/Infinite dealer about a month ago when my parents bought their QX4 and they guy there mentioned a timing chain instead of a timing belt. I read up on it and REALLY REALLY REALLY like this chain. Well...with the belt you have to have it replaced at 60K miles (give or take 5K-10K), with the chain, you get a checkup/tuneup on it at 105K! Great isn't it! Well, I was wondering if anybody knows anything about Acura adoption this new feature. Considering Nissan did while ago, I would have figured Acura would have already done so. I'm getting married in a year and a half (May 2005) and I want to get both a brand new MDX and 3.2TL (Type-S if they have it) that fall when the 2006 come out. I WOULD LIKE IT TO HAVE the chain instead of the belt. Any info would be great! Cheers All!Read more...
Josh Jett's wife knew all about his girlfriend. The forum chatting, the late-night texting, the time they went to the drag strip together--she was fine with all of it. That's mostly because Josh's girlfriend wasn't a girl at all, and their relationship, which had nothing at all to do with surreptitiously sexting one another at all hours and everything to do with collaborating on each other's RSX build-ups, was the sort of stuff car-guy bonds are made of. None of that stopped Josh's wife from pronouncing her husband and fellow RSX chat forum member Zack Keller boyfriend and girlfriend though, even if they were just a couple of friends which shared a fervor for the final iteration of what was once the Acura Integra.Read more...
The Circuit Hero Bolt-in K Series Oil Pan Baffle is a unique product that easily installs between the OEM Windage Tray and Oil Pan Floor. The baffle extends deep into the oil pan, dividing the sump into three sections, with the largest section surronding the oil pumps pickup. The dividers section off the sump so as to keep oil from moving aggressively from one side of the pan to the other during hard corning. The open top design still allows adequate return oil flow to the pan. The design is simple and effective... it keeps the pickup submerged longer during aggressive driving.Read more...
This package comes with everything needed to install onto your K-series engine. You will need to reuse your oil chain tensioner from your K24A. It is the only piece listed as an option for those that do not already have one from the K24 or want a replacement. The oil pump tensioner from the K24ARead more...
This is a sale for a brand new genuine Honda Acura Accord CL7 Euro R Civic EP3 FD2 FN2 Type R RSX Type S Integra DC5 Type R K20A DOHC iVTEC Timing Cam Chain Kit from Honda Motors, Japan. This kit consists of a genuine Honda timing cam chain (170L) (Honda PN: 14401-PNA-004 ), timing cam chain tensioner (Honda PN: 14510-PRB-A01 ), timing cam chain tensioner arm (Honda PN: 14520-PNA-003 ) and timing cam chain guide (Honda PN: 14530-PNA-003 ).Read more...
TODA Racing Timing Chain Tensioner The K20A engine uses a camshaft timing chain tensioner that is operated via oil pressure with an internal ratchet system which keeps the correct chain tension, and correct valve timing. This system is accurate for stock engines, but when the valvetrain is subjected to high load situations, as a result of employing high lift camshafts, high rpms, or rapid down shifting, the standard timing tensioner can move. If this movement occurs, engine damage may result due to valve-to-piston contact. Due to the K20A engine's VTC (Variable Valve Timing) feature, it is very important to control valve timing - VTC has a total cam movement of 50 degrees, therefore any valve timing inaccuracies could possibly cause valve-to-piston contact. TODA Racing has developed a timing chain tensioner that allows movement only to what is required. This prevents the possibility of damage, and keeps accurate cam timing. This product was originally developed for the TODA N+ endurance racing engines. Fits: k20a2 and k20a engines.Read more...
Dear thetruthaboutcars.com, I am asking your advice on what type of car would suit me best. I am a high school student who is the not-so-proud owner of a 1997 Pontiac Sunfire. I recently took a ride in my neighbor s Acura RSX and was impressed with the overall quality of the car, especially the interior and the car s performance in general. It looked like my neighbor had so much fun, flawlessly shifting through the gears. I was amazed at how superior this car was to my low-quality Sunfire. I came to the conclusion that the RSX would be a perfect car for me because of it s high quality,small size, and because of how much fun it looked to be behind it s wheel. When I go off to college and have the money, I plan on buying a better car for myself. Is there any car out there that is similar to the RSX that matches it in quality, size, and performance that I can look into? Any advise is appreciated.Read more...
The classic problem facing high-performance street cars has always been how to maximize performance without sacrificing driveability. Short of power-adders like turbos or nitrous oxide, significant power increases are only achieved by extending the engine's rpm operating range, usually with some combination of intake, exhaust, camshaft, and cylinder head changes. But any significant gains upstairs inevitably cause a loss of low-speed performance, decreased fuel efficiency, and increased emissions.Read more...
This stage 3 all-motor cam is perfect for an engine with a higher-than-stock compression ratio and all the boltons like intake, header, exhaust, ecu. Higher compression engines will see larger gains from this aggressive cam. This cam is made from a forged billet blank. This cam is on a different level than the other cams on the market. Brian Crower is known for making high quality camshafts that make power without breaking the bank. There is no other cam manufacturer on the market that gives you more value for your dollar, and the parts just work. We use them in our own cars and we encourage our customers to use them as well.Read more...
to Dori, Mo, Justin and Ku for being my third hand when I needed it. So with that said... here we go! This is going to let you know what needs to be done to make this conversion possible. It's going to explain sensor differences, what you need, what's optional and show what I personally did because of the pics. The lists will just let you know what parts you need; they will be explained at the caption of the picture to avoid less confusion and up/down scrolling. So MAKE SURE you read the captions of the pics because that is where the information will be! Since I didn't take enough pics on how to drop/lift a motor, I'm going to assume that you already know how. Along with removing the subframe IF you decide to drop it. I have found that you can LIFT the motor out which AVOIDS the hassle of the subframe. It doesn't look like you can but you CAN. Especially if you remove the radiator support and radiator... TRUST ME along with Jnaut. It's easily possible! Subframe Removal link thanks to blueroadster:Read more...
We dedicate our utmost attention to quality. We guarantee all our parts to be free of any manufacturing defects and will gladly accept any defective item(s) that is un-installed and undamaged. A full refund or exchange that comply within our policy dates will be processed. We do not apply a restocking fee for every good item returned. However, any parts returned to us must be in the original condition they were received in. For any reason, you change your mind, you are then responsible for all return shipping charges and we will deduct the original shipping costs from your refund. If you have any concerns or problems with your parts, please contact us by phone or message before leaving any feedback so that we can work together as quickly as possible to resolve the problem. Free UPS Ground shipping is only applied to the 48 continental United States. Customers in Alaska, Hawaii, Puerto Rico, U.S. Territories, APO/FPO, Canada and other countries are responsible for delivery surcharge.Read more...
Yes the k24 can fit into any RSX. All RSX s use the k20 engine. Both the k24 & the k20 have the same engine mounts. The only thing you ll need to do is use the k24 s cross beam. k24 are a bit taller than the k20. If you don t use the cross beam from k24... then you can t close the hood properly on the RSX. You could fabricate a custom hole/vent in the RSX hood or go build a fiberglass hood with a bit of a hump on it.The other think to worry about is that the engine from the TSX (k24a2) is very different from the k24 s from Accord, Element, CRX. Mainly, the k24a2 uses fly by wire, so you ll have to not only use the k24a2 ecu, but also convert a bunch of stuff to deactivate the fly by wire feature.Read more...
The Good: -head equipped with Supertech dual valvesprings, steel retainers, seats, and valve seals -Injen cold air intake -Skunk2 thermal intake manifold gasket -06 rsx type s exhaust -Competition Clutch Stage 4 and 12lb flywheel -Civic em2 clutch master cylinder with new slave cylinder and stainless steel clutch line -Strut King aluminum shifter and shifter cable bushings -J's Racing strut bar -Authentic A-spec lip kit and wheels -Authentic Type R spoiler -DIY blackout head light -Red out taillight cover -Password JDM drilled and slotted front rotors -Posi Quiet ceramic brake pads -Techna Fit stainless steel brake lines -Fresh oil and oil filter change 20 miles ago -New timing chain and timing chain tensioner installed 20 miles ago will include extra parts such as -stock type s wheels with tires painted black -stock abp low spoiler -stock strut bar -dc sports lower tie bar -energy suspension master bushing kit maybe more just cant think of everything at the momentRead more...
Your engine has a number of mechanical accessories attached to it, such as anRead more...
Hello everyone, I currently own a 2002 Acura Rsx and just about a month ago I was driving on the highway at about 60 miles an hour and notice my car hiccup. After exiting and making a quick stop at autozone my car died while I try to reverse. Took it home and check, two out of the spark plugs were dark where it sparks. Barely made it home because it kept dying on me. Before this happened, a couple of weeks before, my car sucked in some water through my cold air. Also, with water in my engine the level was low on oil. Therefore, the light of my oil engine would come on when I drive it. Then I change my oil and flush all of it out and put new oil in it. That didn't solve the problem. Lastly, I took the car home and here is what I checked on. Problem: -two out of the spark plugs keeps getting oil on it. (2 sparkplug and 4 sparkplug) -Oil level will get low when reacing 1000 miles -idle between 1000 and half -blowing blue smoke -die after 3minutes of start up -check engine light is on Checked and changed: -spark plugs -all coils -Pcv valve -oil change -valve gasket -spark plug seals -Iacv change -timing chain checked not slipping Any clue or idea of what to check next. Please help! Im stuck.Read more...

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